The Sapphire Coast is a stunning region with a smattering of lovely towns and villages amidst plenty of wild patches. Spanning 90 kilometres from Bermagui then down to Eden on the border of Victoria and New South Wales, the area is known for its pristine beaches, ancient cliffs and fresh seafood, including some of the country’s best oysters.
It’s the perfect destination for thrill seekers and foodies to do some coastal hopping, and at its heart is Merimbula – a lively town of around 4,000 residents that’s famous for its golden beaches, surf breaks and beautiful lakes.
Each year, tourists flock to this charming string of seaside towns on the Sapphire Coast to see humpback whales on their migration journey to Antarctica, with many lingering longer for the culinary delights, family-friendly activities and accomodation ranging from luxurious retreats to simple cabins near the beach.
Coastal adventures and family fun in Merimbula
Merimbula comes from the Aboriginal word meaning ‘two lakes’, a reference to Merimbula Lake to the south of town and Black Lake to the north. These calm coastal waterways make it a great place for swimming, kayaking and sailing. But the town is perhaps most popular for its beaches, which boast scenic coastal views, aquamarine seas, and perfect surf breaks.
At Main Beach, you can expect five kilometres of crashing waves patrolled during summer. Here, dolphins and seals visit regularly, as well as humpback whales migrating to Antarctica during the spring. The beach backs onto a stunning bush reserve, where tall trees and heathland provide a home for native animals, and you’re welcome to wander along the paths.
For those with families, nearby Ford Park is an accessible playground with a free barbecue area for long days moving between the water and the climbing equipment. It’s also the location of the monthly Merimbula Seaside Market, where you can expect to find local crafts, fresh produce and hot food. It’s the best way to meet the farmers and makers who live on the Sapphire Coast.
To learn more about the incredible wildlife around Merimbula, you can join a tour with Sapphire Coastal Adventures. From November to May, the two-hour cruise departs from the public jetty and sets out to look for dolphins, seals, turtles and seabirds. The experienced crew are always happy to share their local knowledge, pointing out colourful cliffs, islands and the ancient Devonian red rock along the way.
Back on land, take the scenic Long Point Walking Track through a melaleuca forest, which is a coastal wetland full of paperbark trees, to the stunning Long Point Lookout. It is a prime spot to see dolphins, seals and sea eagles, as well as whales during migration season. But no matter when you visit, the lookout is also the best way to take in the red Devonian rock that makes up Long Point. The rock was formed 350 million years ago and represents the world’s first forest, which caused a rise in oxygen levels that resulted in rust-colour iron oxide that stained the ancient riverbeds.
After working up an appetite, you’ll find no shortage of incredible places to eat and drink. Bar Monti, in the heart of Merimbula, is a modern Italian eatery using locally sourced ingredients to reinvent your favourite Italian dishes. The fried gnocchi served with whipped ricotta and mortadella is delicious, or indulge in lamb ragu rigatoni, a capricciosa pizza, or a Florence-style sirloin steak with confit garlic.
All pasta is made in-house, and there’s a dedicated kids’ menu for little ones. Expect an intimate atmosphere and unpretentious neighbourhood vibe in a room that gets more electric as the night goes on.
To sample the delicious oysters that Merimbula is famous for, head to Tidal Restaurant, which is on Beach Street in the middle of town, overlooking the water.
Executive Chef Gavin Swalwell and his team have curated a selection of seafood ethically sourced from local fishers. Start with Merimbula Lake oysters, then try the locally caught blue fin tuna lightly charred with a teriyaki glaze. The Eden snapper fillets served with Shark Bay scallops and ponzu butter is a crowd pleaser. For non-seafood lovers there’s a also great selection of pork, duck and beef dishes that are just as delish.
A history like no other in Eden
Just a 24 minute drive down the coast from Merimbula is Eden, well known by Sydney to Hobart yacht racers who utilise the harbour as a last port of refuge, should one be required, before crossing the Bass Strait.
It is also an ideal spot to go whale watching, and you’re likely to spot humpback whales off Twofold Bay during migration season. The local Thawa people share a deep spiritual connection with the whales, believing them to be the reincarnated spirits of their ancestors.
Sadly, Eden has a long history in the whaling industry, which operated from the early 1800s to the 1930s. The best way to understand this complex heritage is on the Killer Whale Trail, which takes you to five historic sites hidden among the town’s towering cliffs, beaches and capes. Standouts include the Historic Davidson Whaling Station and the Kiah River Inlet.
Make time to check out the Eden Killer Whale Museum, which was built to house the skeleton of the orca called ‘Old Tom’. The 22-foot, six-tonne male orca led a pod for decades, guiding boats of whalers to their prey. This collaboration between human whalers and the orca pod was rare, and the killer whales would often flap their tails up and down to signal the presence of other whales for hunting.
After you’ve had a fill of history, jump aboard a two-hour tour with Sapphire Coastal Adventures to cruise Eden and Twofold Bay and see dolphins, seals, turtles and other marine life in the wild. Operating between November and May, the catamaran tour takes visitors along the breathtaking Eden coastline, which is a treat for photographers and animal lovers alike.
For a relaxed yet elevated dining experience, check out the historic Seahorse Inn. Located on the shores of Twofold Bay, it specialises Australian cuisine celebrating local seafood, and boasts an extensive wine. Start any meal with Sydney rock oysters then dine on chilli and garlic butter prawns, grilled market fish and grain-fed scotch steak. There’s also all the pub classics including chicken schnitzels, burgers and fish and chips.
The Seahorse Inn is also a luxury beachfront escape, complete with ten garden and ocean rooms, as well as self-contained villas located in a private precinct next door. Inn guests are welcome to make use of the tennis court, and the friendly staff can also arrange private tours and bushwalks with a gourmet picnic.
A seafood lovers’ dream in Bermagui
Just one hour from Merimbula, Bermagui is a beautiful coastal town known for its crystal-clear waters, fresh seafood and world-class game fishing, popular due to its proximity to the continental shelf which sits 20 kilometres offshore and attracts massive schools of baitfish and ocean predators.
Start your adventure at Bermagui Fishermen’s Wharf, a hub of fresh seafood and culinary delights. For fresh, locally-caught fish and chips, Bluewave Seafood is the perfect spot. Watch fishing boats load and unload on the dock, find shade under a tree in the neighbouring park, and tuck into perfectly fried fish and salty potato chips. For coastal European and African flavours on the wharf, Octopii is open from breakfast to dinner, serving standout dishes such as chicken Dhansak curry, beef lasagne, and brûléed banana choux pastry.
After you’ve had your fill, head to the iconic Bermagui Blue Pool to soak in the ocean-fed water while looking out over the cliffside. Although there are more than 100 ocean-fed rock pools in NSW, this gem is often rated among the prettiest thanks to its opaline colour, which fades to turquoise and then yellow as the sun sets. Dip your head underwater, and you’ll spot anemones, sea stars and fish swimming alongside you. Or, if you’d rather stay dry, the viewing platform offers incredible views across the pool and all the way to the horizon.
To learn more about the town’s incredible natural surroundings, embark on the 18 kilometre Bermagui Coastal Walk, which winds along bushland, sandy beaches, nature reserves, and past steep cliffs. Make sure to stop at one of the many lookouts, including Murunna Point, which is a significant Aboriginal site with views to Gulaga (Mount Dromedary), as well as Dickinson Point Headland, Camel Rock and Horse Head Rock. These rock formations are believed to be almost 450 million years old, formed by underwater avalanches that folded turbidite beds onto themselves.
To experience local talent, make sure to check out Shop7 ArtSpace, a co-operative gallery that regularly features work from artists across the Bermagui region. Exhibitions change each month, so you’ll always find a new collection of ceramics, prints, sculptures and textiles to explore. The gallery also hosts three open exhibitions each year, inviting locals to enter their best work for a community showcase.
If you enjoyed this story on the Sapphire Coast, find more family-friendly activities in the region here.
Rex flies to Moruya and Merimbula on the Sapphire Coast. Head to the website HERE and check out the route map below for more details.
