Blue Mountains National Park is the most visited national park in Australia, and this ancient bushland on Sydney’s doorstep has so many stories to tell – for those who know where to look.
Here’s how to dive below the surface and engage with incredible Indigenous experiences in the Blue Mountains.
Opener: Blue Mountains Botanic Gardens, Mount Tomah. Image: Destination NSW.
Welcome to Gundungurra Country
The bustling hub of Scenic World hugs the clifftop at Katoomba, with spectacular views over the Three Sisters, Mount Solitary and the Jamison Valley. The familiar blue haze in the air – from eucalypt oils catching the sunlight – gives the Blue Mountains its trademark aura.
The greater Blue Mountains has been the home of six Indigenous language groups for tens of thousands of years, and the Dharug and Gundungurra people are the traditional carers and custodians of this Country. The Buunyal tour at Scenic World, curated by Gundungurra man Uncle David King, is one of the few Indigenous cultural tours in the Blue Mountains.
David is a passionate cultural educator as well as a bush, land and swamp carer. Our tour begins with a ride down the world’s steepest passenger train to the valley floor and a cheeky story about the conveniently soft leaves of the “toilet paper tree”.
Over the next two hours, David shares knowledge of cultural protocols, navigation, bush tucker, plants and animals, and the region’s creation stories. As we hear a lyrebird in the distance, he talks about the importance of sitting on Country, and taking time to engage deeply with the land.
“It’s all about connecting people to Country,” he says. “It just makes you feel good.”
David also shares personal stories of his mother Aunty Mary King, who was taken away from her family aged eight and later reconnected with her culture. The Garguree Walk in The Gully is a great way to learn more about this chapter of Katoomba’s history. Thanks to David and other Gully Traditional Owners, it is now a declared Aboriginal Place and a tranquil site for reparation and rehabilitation.
World Heritage wonders
In 2000, the Greater Blue Mountains Area was granted World Heritage status from UNESCO due to its incredible biodiversity. Over 90 species of eucalypts can be found here, and there are eight national parks within one million hectares, including Wollemi National Park where the rare Wollemi pines were discovered in 1994. The landscape is a mix of open woodlands, temperate rainforests, sandstone cliffs, hanging swamps and stunning slot canyons.
The NSW National Parks and Wildlife Service (NPWS) managed Blue Mountains Heritage Centre in Blackheath is the perfect place to start for those interested in history, bushwalking and conservation. The accessible Fairfax Heritage walking track starts from the Centre’s back door, where NPWS Discovery Ranger Jamie takes us on a hike. Jamie tells us about native plants, such as the versatile grass tree, which was used by the local Indigenous people to make glue, spears and even cordial.
“The bush was Bunnings, Chemist Warehouse and Coles for the local people, who didn’t just survive here, but flourished,” he says.
Walking with a knowledgeable guide opens your eyes to the amazing abundance of life in the bush around you, and the importance of caring for it for generations to come. And when we reach Govetts Leap lookout, my mouth falls open too – the magnificent Grose Valley is certainly an awe-inspiring sight.
History & culture
Further up the mountain at Hartley Historic Site, you’ll find Kew-Y-Anh Aboriginal Gallery. Established in 2013, the gallery represents and sells work by Aboriginal painters, printers, weavers, designers, jewellers and photographers from the Central West region. It covers two rooms in an 1860s-era Farmers Inn building, and is a professional, creative space full of treasures waiting to be discovered.
Aleshia Londsale from Arts OutWest is the curator. She sources work from Aboriginal artists between Lithgow and Condoblin, and says the gallery is a crucial place for exposure.
“Many of the towns don’t have gallery spaces or art centres,” says Aleshia, “so it’s an important way to get their work seen by a wider audience.”
The artists themselves range from 16 to 60, and work in a variety of mediums. I’m drawn to the bright paintings of birds by Dharug/Darkinjung artist Dennis King, and the gorgeous weaving of Wiradjuri weaver Bev Coe. The artists receive mentoring from Aleshia on preparing their pieces to be exhibited, as well as how to price and sell their work.
A sense of adventure
The wetsuits, ropes and helmets filling the office of Blue Mountains Adventure Company point to the breadth of their amazing canyoning, abseiling and climbing tours. Today though we don’t need the gear: we’re walking the Centennial Glen Circuit in Blackheath with Dan, who has a wealth of local knowledge and a deep respect for the Traditional Custodians of the land.
The track looks out over the beautiful Kanimbla Valley, and encompasses mountain views, lush rainforest and waterfalls. It’s also a popular spot for rock climbers – we see several hanging from ropes on the sheer cliffs overhead.
As we clamber through a slot canyon to reach a pristine cascade, I dip my hand in the water and it becomes instantly numb. I tell Dan I’d like to come back for a go at canyoning – in the warmer months.
“Anyone can do it,” he says enthusiastically. “All you need is a reasonable level of fitness and a sense of adventure.”
Later, as night falls, a group gathers quietly at Jamison Lookout near Wentworth Falls to experience the beauty of the night sky with Blue Mountains Stargazing. This immersive mix of science and wonder is tonight led by astrophysicist Nathan.
He points out our brightest stars and constellations, and we see the craters of the full moon as well as the ‘jewel box’ star cluster in fantastic detail through the telescope – all while sipping a cup of warm hot chocolate.
The ‘other’ side
A drive up Bells Line of Road takes you through Dharug country, where small villages with quirky shops, cute cafes and apple orchards abound. This is also where you’ll find the amazing Blue Mountains Botanic Garden at Mount Tomah: the highest botanic gardens in the world. Tomah means ‘tree fern’ in the Dharug language.
The gardens are divided into four precincts with several themed gardens, lawns and features including pagodas, bubbling cascades and secluded viewpoints. It’s popular for weddings, proposals and family events, and has picnic areas with barbecue facilities. From the Visitor Centre and cafe, the view is expansive and breathtaking.
Our guide Marion shares her important conservation work in protecting rare species from Australia and around the world – including the Wollemi pine. Consultation with Traditional Custodians is integral to their plant knowledge and stewardship.
For lunch, we head to the nearby Hillbilly Cider. Shane and Tessa opened this site four years ago: a revamped apple packing shed with cosy fireplaces and picnic tables which on weekends are brimming with day-trippers enjoying cider and live music.
Eight types of award-winning cider are on offer, all made with local apples. Each one is incredibly crisp, fresh and light, and Shane is constantly experimenting with new flavours. If you find yourself a bit peckish, tuck into a delicious Neapolitan-style wood-fired pizza or the signature apple calzone, made with cider-poached apples (of course) and freshly baked to order.
Indulge at Arrana
Tucked behind a suburban arcade in the heart of Springwood lies Arrana: a 40-seat gem earning rave reviews and accolades, including Two Chefs Hats from the Australian Good Food Guide. Executive Chef Daniel Cabban is very humble, however, focusing on the food rather than the awards.
“Ninety per cent of my job is experimentation,” Daniel says, and his creativity is apparent in every bite.
This fine-dining destination elevates native Australian ingredients not often seen on restaurant menus, such as Davidson plum, white kunzea and bunya nut. In the four-course Darrbi and seven-course Marri Menu, these unique ingredients shine through in beautifully presented dishes.
The crocodile with quinoa and lemon aspen is a standout, as is the dessert made with local honey, cinnamon myrtle, rosella, passionfruit and macadamia. Colourful cocktails and non-alcoholic pairings also highlight exciting native flavours.
Laidback luxury
Chalets at Blackheath was founded by Angela O’Connell, who aimed to create a luxury eco experience in the Blue Mountains. The site was the former Jemby Rinjah Eco Lodge, which burnt down in the 2019 Black Summer bushfires. It is now home to just four secluded chalets surrounded by regenerated bushland and native gardens, radiating tranquillity and privacy.
Each chalet features a king-sized bed, kitchen, mini-bar, fireplace and a grand limestone bathroom with twin waterfall showers and a deep freestanding bathtub, looking out onto the peaceful bush. The chalets are inspired by the natural environment, particularly the nearby Grand Canyon track and Walls Cave, an Indigenous walk of great significance. The clay tiles in the shower echo the colours of the escarpment, while the blackened timber of the exterior is a nod to the bushfires.
A notable feature is the Indigenous edible garden, currently growing native ginger and rosemary, which guests are able to pick. Native ingredients are also available as yoghurt toppers for your morning muesli in the sun-filled library, as well as pastries and fresh bread delivered each day from Black Cockatoo bakery in Katoomba.
Another unique place to stay is Hotel Etico in Mount Victoria: the first social enterprise hotel in Australia, providing vocational hospitality training and independent living skills for young adults with learning disabilities.
We check out the charming historic manor house before heading downstairs to Niccolo’s Restaurant and Bar. Brandon, a trainee, takes our order and serves up some delicious antipasto, garlic pizza and two creamy, filling pastas. As live music kicks off in the bar, the place fills up with friendly locals rubbing shoulders with hotel guests – and you can tell this is the place to be on a Friday night.
On the edge
“Now, that’s what you call life clinging to the edge,” says NPWS Discovery Ranger Greg, pointing from Fletchers Lookout towards the incredible plant life growing from a sheer sandstone cliff face. We’re on a section of the Grand Cliff Top Walk: a 19km two-day walk from Wentworth Falls to Katoomba which recently opened after receiving a $10 million upgrade.
The wayfinding signs were painted by David King’s daughter Kelsie and feature a yellow-tailed black cockatoo (Wumbarrung in Gundungurra language). If you’re lucky, you’ll catch a glimpse of one on the walk, or hear their eerie cries overhead.
Later on, I learn exactly what it feels like to be ‘clinging to the edge’ myself. As the sun goes down at Scenic World, I am strapped securely into a harness and helmet for Beyond Skyway: the world-first rooftop cable car adventure.
Our experienced guides help calm my nerves as the cable car stops in the middle of the valley and we climb out onto the rooftop an exhilarating 270 metres above the valley floor. I remember David’s Dreaming story about creator spirit Mirrigan, a native quoll, who chased the colourful eel Gurangatch to form the mountains and valleys I can see in front of me.
As the last light of the day catches the sandstone escarpments, I feel a great sense of peace and connection to this ancient landscape, and all the passionate people we’ve met who respect and care for it. It’s the perfect way to appreciate the region’s stories and heritage, and our own place
within it.
Loved learning about Indigenous experiences in the Blue Mountains? Check out our Indigenous Aus section for more amazing cultural experiences.
Travel to the Blue Mountains
Rex flies to Sydney and from there it is an easy 1 hour drive to the Blue Mountains. Book your tickets here and check out the route map below.
