Ningaloo Reef is a UNESCO World-Heritage listed site known for its turquoise waters and abundance of marine life. Most people journey here with dreams of swimming with whale sharks (who wouldn’t?), but it’s just one of the many reasons this stunning coastal oasis should be at the top of your bucket list.
Discover the best tours and outdoor adventures to add to your intinerary.
Whale, Dolphin and Turtle Tour
When I arrive in Ningaloo, just a short distance from the resort town of Exmouth, I waste no time starting my marine adventure. It’s straight onto a waiting boat, and out onto the ocean before I’ve even had the chance to look around.
Jimmy, the skipper and owner of Ocean Eco Adventures, is deftly guiding out his gleaming 20 foot vessel – Latitude 22 – through patches of corals and swathes of sea grass in a kaleidoscope of fluttering greens. The water is so clear I can see the intricate patterning on some fish as they playfully dart in and out of their underwater forest, the sun reflecting off their scales.
“We call this tiger shark highway ‘cause there’s so many of them,” says Jimmy with a hearty laugh as three large green turtles glide across our lane.
A woman on the lower deck squeals with excitement as she clicks some photos of the shiny shells the size of large ponchos. Barely a minute later there’s a loud shout from the stern of the boat — ‘Whales!’ — and I look around to see two humpback whale tails slapping the surface of the water barely 20 metres from us. One whale does a backward flip of a breach and the two giants cavort about to a chorus of ‘Ohhhs’.
I’m torn on where to look when a young child yelps and shouts to her mother – ‘dolphins mummy!’ There are three of them frolicking in our slipstream.
Welcome to Ningaloo Reef – a 260 kilometre stretch of fringing reef that is home to 200 species of hard coral, 50 soft coral and over 500 species of fish. To say that the reef is teaming with marine life is an understatement. We’ve already seen a pod of orcas and a fever of stingrays, and we haven’t even made it to the patch of ocean where the spotter planes have identified whale shark activity.
To add to the excitement of the 20 guests on board Latitude – who are mainly from the East coast where winter has been harsh for Australian standards – the sun is shining and the water is warm. Having all been in for a couple of snorkels, we’re already kitted out in thick wetsuits and we’re on a nature-inspired high.
Whale Shark Wonders
Jimmy stops the boat and the crew, who are mostly marine biologists, gather together to deliver the highly anticipated news that a whale shark has been spotted only 20 kilometres away..
The procedures everyone has to follow are rigid, ensuring that we stay a safe distance from the whale sharks, that can grow up to 12 metres in length and can live until 100. We’re told that the ones in this reef are usually male and around 4 to 8 metres, and we’re given the lowdown on the whale shark’s expected behaviour.
There’s nothing to be scared of, we’re assured, except for one bumping into you, as the sheer weight (more than ten tonnes) is enough to knock anyone out. The whale shark is a filter feeder, living on macro algae, plankton, krill, Christmas Island red crab larvae and small nektonic life, such as squid or vertebrates.
After the briefing, we all eagerly watch the water as Latitude glides to the place the spotter planes have identified. Jimmy is on the radio sharing the coordinates with the four other boats out on the reef, as in true Aussie spirit, if only one or two whale sharks are spotted, everyone ‘shares the sharks’ to make sure everyone has a memorable time.
The friendly yet highly competitive banter on the radio is a comic routine, but one that is necessary to keep all businesses on the reef working together for the same cause.
Snorkeling at Ningaloo Reef
Ten minutes later, two teams of ten snorkelers are formed, and we all sit on the edge of the stern with flippers above the water and goggles in place. Then, suddenly, it’s all on. I drop into the wonderfully warm water, endless bubbles surrounding me. We all snorkel in a line behind our leader and before I know it, a shape I’ve been longing to see in the wild for over a decade glides towards us.
He’s slow and graceful, large and purposeful. He’s just cruising along with his filter-feeding mouth wide open in a sort-of-semi smile, consuming all manner of sea morsels as he moves right past. I forget to kick. Or breath. I’m just hanging there, ogling him. Then my group all start swimming and he’s below us, about five metres down. For a fleeting moment, I am swimming alone with the biggest fish in the ocean – the winter sunlight streaming through the gaps in my lanky limbs, lighting up the big cartoon-like spots on his back. I see my shadow on him, and then he disappears into the deep blue and I am left there elated, floating, staring bug-eyed out into Ningaloo.
Sal Salis Sand Dunes
After a long day of snorkelling and swimming, it’s back to dry land for a luxurious camping experience. Located only a few metres from the water, Sal Salis is an eco-tent resort centred around its ethos of conservation and sustainability. The tents are elevated on wooden posts, and the eco non-flushing toilets and showers give guests 20 litres of water brought from Exmouth every day.
But sustainability by no means compromises on luxury. Each safari-style tent includes a private deck and hammock, complimentary bar, comfortable bed and an ensuite bathroom. Guests are welcome to enjoy evening cocktails at the Lodge, and make use of the kayaks, paddle-board and snorkels provided for exploring the coastline.
At night, the sky lights up with millions of shining lights thanks to the lack of light pollution, making it a great place to stargaze or wander along the sand with loved ones.
The wonderful staff at this resort, managed by Will and Kate, are all in love with nature and the great outdoors, most of them also being qualified biologists and scientists.
Camping on the Coast
Every evening, guests from the nine tents meet at the one communal area, which consists of a lounge and reading area, an undercover dining area, and a pontoon-like balcony that hosts the main dining table. The chef is superb – dishing up canapés, entrees, mains and deserts that are not only well considered (she has to think carefully about every ingredient as it all has to be delivered from town) but delicious, with some fun and cleverness thrown in. From risotto balls and cheese platters to chili mussels, lamb shanks and red wine marinated pears with ice cream, this outback chef knows how to make simple food shine.
Guests at Sal Salis have all-inclusive packages, which takes in accommodation, food and beverages (all wines are top Aussie gems), and activities such as guided bush walking and trekking in the nearby gorges, kayaking, fishing and snorkelling.
Before the sun went down on my second day, I went drift snorkelling a few minutes walk from my tent. I was only a metre above an abundant coral reef, a few metres from the shore, and I just let the current take me. Thousands of fish swam around me, little puffy, slim, poky and flat faces of curiosity staring up at me from within their homes of coral, sand and seaweed. At one point, a school of parrot fish came flying towards me, then swirled out in a silky fan of colour to either side as I glided through them.
There I was – ogling again, mouth unattractively agape, floating. I felt like a giant fish adrift in Ningaloo.
Trek through rugged landscapes
On my final day in this breathtaking region, I joined a walking tour with Trek Ningaloo. The EcoStar-accredited team have been leading small guided treks through Cape Range National Park for years, specialising in low-impact experiences.
The one-day Cape Range Explorer tour is a collection of short walks that showcase the best of the national park and Ningaloo Coast. We start by exploring the canyons of Cape Range, heading to the highest point for breathtaking views of the Ningaloo Coastline. I can see the coral reef through the crystal-clear water, and it takes my breath away.
After a quick lunch, it’s over the the Ningaloo Coast for another scenic walk and a dip in the cool waters of the Ningaloo Lagoon. It’s a refreshing break from the heat, and my whole body relaxes as I float through the blue water.
As we’ve still got time, the guide takes us to Mangrove Bay, a tranquil area known for its rich birdlife. I take a seat in the shade and watch as small birds perch on the water’s edge.
Visiting Ningaloo has been more than I could have imagined, and I know I will carry these memories with me for a lifetime.
Enjoyed this story on Ningaloo Reef? Try checking out our article on the best nature and wildlife experiences in the country!
Or if you’re ready to see Ningaloo Reef for yourself, Rex flies from Perth to Carnarvon, and it’s a lovely road trip of under four hours to Exmouth.
