There are plenty of gems to unearth in Castlemaine, a pretty goldfield town 90 minutes from Melbourne, where the grandeur of bygone days meets gentle touches of city life.
Located in the heart of Victoria’s ‘golden triangle’, between bigger cities Bendigo and Ballarat, Castlemaine (with a population around 7500) is known for its architectural masterpieces, exquisite gardens, and a thriving arts and foodie culture. From the magnificent Theatre Royal to the leafy 19th-century Botanic Gardens set around an ornamental lake, Castlemaine is a glimpse into the past with an eye on the future.
Whether it’s fossicking for antiques (or gold), taking the kids on the vintage steam train, catching a live show, browsing the boutiques, biking or hiking the goldfield trails, visiting one of the many artist studios or simply soaking up the ambience – a short holiday in Castlemaine will leave a lasting impression.
Historic hospitality at Theatre Royal
Established in 1854, Theatre Royal is the longest operating theatre on the Australian mainland. The family-run business has maintained its 1930s decor, with patterned friezes on the walls and ceiling of the auditorium, historic light fittings and a long oak staircase.
The 200-seat cinema shows the best blockbusters, classics and foreign films, while local and international musicians also regularly take to the stage. For those after a bite to eat, however, Teatro Regio is the on-site restaurant serving regional Italian-style fare. Think semi-sourdough pizza fermented for 72 hours and hand-stretched to order. Each thin, crispy base is cooked in a stone-floor oven, with delicious choices such as the salami pizza with tomato sugo, Grana Padano, black olives and basil, or the taleggio and artichoke pizza with garlic oil, Grana Padano, rosemary, green olive, pear and honey.
Stop in on every Tuesdays for the pennywise menu, which includes $25 pizza with a house wine, beer or spritz for an extra $5, as well as $12 movie tickets. On sunny days, the outdoor garden bar is the perfect place to relax with a cocktail or local wine, and you’ll also find all your favourite drops at the on-site bottle shop.
Tortoise Espresso is for the coffee addicts
When local coffee-lover Lloyd Meadows was just 16-years-old, he started a hole-in-the-wall cafe inside an old pub. Today, the shopfront has expanded with a menu of around 60 different roasts, each with its own unique flavours and origins. Whether you like your coffee black or with milk, you can design your perfect cup, or ask the friendly baristas what they recommend.
Tortoise Espresso is also popular for its New York style bagels, baked fresh every morning with gluten free options also available. The menu is small but perfect, with standouts including the antipasto bagel with calabrese salami, tomato relish, sun-dried tomatoes, roasted capsicum and pesto, or the haloumi bagel with tomato relish, red pickled onion, sliced tomato, rocket and aioli. If you’re after a classic, order a cream cheese bagel and add hot honey for an extra kick.
Try famous pastries at Johnny Baker
A drive-through bakery may seem an unlikely fit for a small country town, however the early morning queues here say it all. Tucked behind the Northern Arts Hotel, Johnny Baker makes addictive pastries that must be tasted to be believed.
The small shop (with enough space for about four people at a time) is sectioned into three: pies and baguettes to the right, cakes and tarts to the left, and pastries in the middle. Head Chef John Stekerhofs uses Belgian butter for the perfect light, airy finish to his croissants, which take three days to make. Visitors line up well before opening to taste these delights, with three batches usually sold out by 10am. But if you miss out, don’t worry, there are so many delicious treats here, as well as barista-roasted coffee and gelato.
Superhero brings Vietnam to Castlemaine
Superhero is a family-run business specialising in Bánh Mì, Bún, and Bao using family recipes from Vietnam and ingredients from their Faraday garden. Everything here is made daily, with a seasonal menu revolving around the best home-grown produce.
Grab a Bánh Mì filled with roasted pork, five spice chicken or sticky wok fried tofu, and watch the fresh bread get stuffed with housemade mayo, pate, cucumber, pickled carrots and daikon. Or, enjoy your meal over vermicelli rice noodles, with homegrown Faraday herbs, roasted peanuts and traditional Vietnamese sauce.
The daily cakes are another must-try, and constantly change to suit the best available ingredients. Think brown butter almond layer cake with lemon curd and Limoncello meringue, pistachio tart with Faraday raspberries, and chocolate cake with salted honey cream and blackberries.
Top drops at Boomtown Winery
Here’s the thing about Castlemaine: it’s full of innovation and creativity. The Mill Precinct is a makers community for food and drink, as well as vintage and hand-made products and art. Tucked away inside this quirky collective in the old Castlemaine Woollen Mill is Boomtown Winery, a local winery, cellar bar and bistro. From Thursday to Sunday, visitors can enjoy tastings of the best small-batch local wines that reflect the terroir of the region.
Plus, from Friday to Sunday, the bistro opens with a weekly seasonal menu, made to share and inspired by the flavours of southern France and northern Italy. Each dish is based on the organic growers and producers who work with the bistro team, and pairs perfectly with the range of wines. The set menu is the best way to experience the food and wines that make Boomtown so unique, with two or three courses available.
Recent standouts include house made focaccia with salted bread, maldon lamb with carrots and labne, and gnocchi with pine mushroom and parmesan.
Das kaffeehaus is a slice of European style
Also in the Mill Precinct, das kaffeehaus is a small-batch micro roastery that brings some distinctly European sophistication to country Victoria. Austrian couple Elna Schaerf-Trauner and Edmund Schaerf opened this Viennese coffee house to share their passion for roasting and blending. Step inside, and you’ll discover a ballroom-sized space filled with gilt-framed mirrors hanging above red leather banquettes, marble-topped tables with café chairs and, the pièce de résistance, a magnificent teardrop chandelier.
The 100 per cent Arabica coffee is roasted and blended in small batches onsite using traditional methods, and served by expert baristas. On the menu, you will also find Austrian beers and wines, hearty meals, and pastries made daily in-house. The grilled würstel sausages are a must, topped with four-year-old vintage cheese and sauerkraut for a traditional Viennese lunch. In fact, you’ll find a whole range of Viennese dishes here, including wiener schnitzel, goulash and liverwurst. Make sure to try the apfelstrudel, which is sweet, spiced apples served in a flaky crust.
A classic pub feed at The Bridge Hotel
Pull up a stool and grab a beer at this local hangout, known for its unpretentious and family-friendly vibes. At The Bridge Hotel, the seasonal menu is thoughtfully designed by co-Head Chefs Ana Corya and Raul Lopez, who have built relationships with local producers and makers. As well as all the pub classics, you can expect potato gnocchi with pumpkin, stracciatella and burnt butter, and sugo meatballs with rocket, parmesan and bread. There’s also a kids menu for the little ones.
The Bridge Hotel is always buzzing with locals and visitors. Choose from the dining room booth tables, front bar seating or beer garden space, and enjoy the only place in Castlemaine where every AFL game is shown on the big screen. Weekly events keep the good vibes going, with trivia on Wednesday and live music all weekend long. On Sunday evenings, you can enjoy a traditional English roast dinner with all the fixings.
Burgers and brews at Love Shack Brewing Co
In 2021, best friends Conna Mallett and Harrison Cox moved to Castlemaine to launch their own bar and brewery. Today, Love Shack Brewing Co serves theatre-goers heading next door for a show, as well as thirsty travellers who love the range of reliable, approachable beers such as the American-style pale ale and west coast IPA.
The bar and brewery pays homage to classic regional Victorian pubs, featuring a long curved bar, walls lined with old paintings and vintage decorations, fresh native plants, and a traditional handpump. The bar kitchen serves toasties so good they’re renowned in town, while the bistro is overseen by Head Chef Joel Baylon, with a menu of Aussie classics including the chicken parmigiana, fish & chips and juicy beef burger. As well as the beers roasted on-site, Love Shack serves local wines and handmade cocktails. Keep an eye on its social media for upcoming events, including Oktoberfest celebrations, grand final specials and more.
Looking for the best vineyards to visit in Victoria? Click here.
Rex flies to Melbourne, which is a 90-minute drive from Castlemaine. Book your flights here or check out the route map below for more details.
