Hot beach towels, camping a stone’s throw from the water, walking barefoot with a Golden Gaytime in hand. I have fond memories of summers of my youth spent at Ocean Grove and Barwon Heads on the Bellarine Peninsula. I’d walk the bridge linking the twin beach towns, across the Barwon River where people drifted on colourful inflatable mattresses and families built sandcastles on the sand flats.
Nowadays my territory, and my summer goals, have broadened. From Geelong, an hour’s drive west of Melbourne, to the tip of the Bellarine Peninsula as it cradles Port Phillip, my regular rambles have revealed the entire region has all the ingredients to be the perfect summer playground.
Dive into the big blue
Water is essential to a summer holiday. In the peninsula, sheltered coves meet the invigorating ocean facing the Bass Strait. Beaches at Indented Head, St Leonards, Queenscliff and Portarlington are calm and relaxing, while Ocean Grove’s surf beach is patrolled in summer and ideal for riding big waves.
I never tire of the sea baths at Geelong’s Eastern Beach. They’re a throwback to the 1930s, enclosed by a semi-circular boardwalk that shelters diving boards, floating pontoons and a lap swimming area. It’s a hive of activity in summer, with adjacent parkland perfect for setting up a picnic lunch.
Drive 30 minutes to Queenscliff, and the friendly staff at Sea All Dolphin Swims will take you out on the water to snorkel with dolphins, seals and colourful reef fish. On the half-day experience, I’m supplied with all the equipment I’ll need and taken out to Chinamen’s Hat, which is a temporary home to around 40 young fur seals. The instructors explain how to swim with these playful pups, and share the fascinating maritime history of the area. Then it’s time to take the plunge, before steering further out to find wild dolphins for another swimming session. Every ticket includes optional adventure activities, such as riding on the boom net and a massage from a duck spa, and each tour supports marine conservation and sustainability.
The Barwon River flows 160 kilometers from the Otway Ranges through the heart of Geelong and empties out into the sea at Barwon Heads. The wide and gentle waters are a favourite with families and lovers of stand up paddleboarding, but I’m drawn to the guided kayaking tours with Outside Adventures.
The Full Moon Night Paddle takes place once a month, when expert guides take visitors on a two-hour adventure, the path revealing itself under the light of the night sky. With all equipment included, I love exploring the waterways and relaxing in the serene, quiet atmosphere.
Unforgettable flavours & unmatched ambience
Over the years, I’ve watched the food and drink scene here skyrocket, adding hatted restaurants and five-star James Halliday-rated wineries to the old favourites of fish and chips and pub fare.
There’ll always be a place in my heart for a chicken parmi, and Portarlington Grand Hotel has possibly the best, served in fabulous heritage décor. The hotel has four unique dining areas, including the open-air atrium and cosy restaurant, which stays warm thanks to the burning wood fires.
Stick around for weekly specials, including Tuesday night trivia with $25 pizzas, happy hour Fridays with cheap drinks and $25 parmis, and a traditional Sunday roast for only $25.
Also renowned in this seaside town are mussels – so much so, there’s a festival dedicated to them every January – and the waterfront restaurant The Raw dishes them up year round. In fact, the restaurant prides itself on showcasing the finest produce from Geelong and surrounds, with more than 90 per cent of ingredients sourced from local farmers and producers.
Award-winning chef Jack Lee has designed the thoughtful menu, which changes seasonally but always includes fresh seafood such as rainbow trout rillettes tartlet, Lake Entrance octopus and oysters with beetroot and fermented pear. The eight course tasting menu is a journey of flavour that celebrates the diversity of the region, and the wine list is carefully curated from top local winemakers.
The Bellarine’s many wineries are some of my favourite places to savour long lunches, made all the more special by the backdrop of the vast blue bay beyond rows of vines, such as at Jack Rabbit Vineyard. While the wine tastings are a great way to sample the refreshing pinot grigio, full-bodied shiraz and everything in between, I’m partial to pairing my glass with a lunch at the award-winning Jack Rabbit Restaurant, which is known for its experimental dishes such as coal dried Lonsdale tomato served with house-made ricotta and chard open ravioli, or Great Ocean confit duck leg with smoked hock broth and pickled raspberry.
I stumbled across Anther Gin Distillery while visiting the enormous Geelong Vintage Market – both are in the heritage red-brick Federal Woollen Mills – and tastings here are a real eye-opener. The team use native botanicals to infuse their gins, resulting in unique flavours such as the orange, cranberry and rose Ms Gina gin, which raises money for the Australian Gynaecological Cancer Foundation. At the cellar door, I was torn between a gin tasting and a cocktail flight in the beautiful garden. In the end, I settled on a gin & tonic with the Australian dry gin, made using 16 different botanicals.
Places like Wallington’s Flying Brick Cider Co or The Whiskery in Drysdale are part of a growing number of distilleries and breweries, idyllic for whiling away an afternoon.
Get into some summer action
Between beach towels and books, there’s occasionally a need to burn off some energy. Options include any of the dozen golf courses: Barwon Heads, Lonsdale Links and 13th Beach are ranked in Australia’s top 10 public courses, or perhaps Adventure Park Geelong, Victoria’s biggest water theme park, packed with splash pools, tube rides and Victoria’s only triple funnel waterslide.
I love cycling the Foreshore trail between Portarlington and St Leonards for a scenic ride past peaceful bays, drifting pelicans and the wreck of the Ozone paddlesteamer, a popular snorkelling spot. Amongst the pylons of St Leonards Pier is another prime location for floating above colourful sponges, fish and seahorses – or for casting a fishing line.
For those travelling with the family, Fairy Park is just 30 minutes from Geelong and designed around fairytales, myths and legends. Kids love exploring the 32 scenes housed inside castles, cottages and caves, which are dotted all around the colourful gardens. Discover the secret passages and tunnels of Camelot Adventure Playground, or explore Mystic Hallows to ride a unicorn and sit on a three-headed Hydra.
Where to stay in Geelong
The Best Western Geelong Motor Inn & Serviced Apartments offers fantastic four star accommodation. Ideally positioned to experience the best of Geelong and the Great Ocean Road, a short two-minute drive will take you to the city centre, while you are only a short walk from the Corio Bay Boardwalk and Geelong Waterfront – with all the restaurants, cafes and attractions at your fingertips.
There are plenty of rooms to choose from to suit all travelers, including spacious standard rooms, family rooms, spa suites and one and two bedroom fully self-contained apartments. All rooms feature everything you need to make your holiday easy and relaxing.
Crowne Plaza Geelong offers sweeping views across the bay, with 200 thoughtfully designed rooms and suites. With two on-site restaurants, a fitness centre and a pool, it has everything you’ll need for a relaxing and indulgent holiday.
A little further out, The Royal Queenscliff first opened its doors in 1854 and has been carefully restored to welcome guests to any of the nine unique suites complete with luxury furnishings. Each room is inspired by the famous poets of history, so guests can discover Byron’s romance or Wilde’s wit during their stay. Visitors can also unwind in the cosy Cocktail Lounge, where drinks pair best with handmade pizzas and weekend live music. For art lovers, the in-house gallery rotates its exhibitions of local makers and work from resident artist Joan Blond, so there’s always something new to explore.
Want more to explore in Victoria? Check out the Victorian High Country.
You can travel to Melbourne with Rex, and Geelong is only an hour’s drive. Book your flight here and check out the route map below for more details.
