In Sydney a meal often comes with a view that could easily steal the show. Ferries glide across the harbour, the smooth sails of the Opera House catch the light whether it’s day or night, and in charming historic suburbs, character-filled sandstone buildings hint at stories stretching back more than two centuries.
Whether you’re celebrating a special occasion, catching up with friends, or looking for an excuse to spend a little longer enjoying Sydney, these restaurants offer distinctly different experiences and they’re tucked away from those passing by on the main thoroughfares.
In fact, you’d have to hear or read about them to know that they are there…
The Oriana: The Queen of Circular Quay
With uninterrupted views of the Harbour Bridge and the Opera House, few dining rooms can compete with The Oriana Restaurant’s waterside location, confidently slipping into the space where Quay ruled the culinary scene in these parts for 25 years.
Gone is the glaringly bright blue carpet – replaced with a warm, rich medley of plush pink and deep red tones that beautifully complement the smooth acacia and ashwood plush retro-style tables and chairs.
Sunlight streams through the glass-walled space during the day, and we’re lucky enough to be dining when there’s not a cruise ship in sight to block our view of the Opera House. A superyacht glides by as we begin our Oriana degustation by tucking into some of the most delicately sweet Balmain bugs I’ve ever tasted, and the lamb shoulder croquettes served with a tongue-tingling pickled onion have perfectly crispy shells.
The menu showcases much-loved premium Australian produce such as seafood and steak, and Chef Jason Roberson should definitely be staking a claim on having the best duck fat potatoes in Sydney. They’re so soft and wickedly delicious that we joke about the potatoes having been removed from the skin, whipped to perfection and somehow stuffed back into the skins to look like perfect little roasties.
Not to be outdone, the full blood wagyu striploin is a masterpiece of tenderness, and due to my swoon over the lobster tagliatelle, a lady next to us discreetly points at my plate and orders it. The Murray River cod in a butter emulsion with salmon roe has us competing for last mouthful and the two little profiteroles that we left room for are crispy, creamy puffs of heaven sprinkled with crunchy chocolate pearls.
If you’re after something more casual for a light lunch or a drink with friends, on the Ground Floor there’s The Oriana Beer Garden, and on Level 1 is The Oriana Pub. Events can be held above the restaurant on Level 4, in The Oriana Harbour Room. All four levels have that stunning view that you can never take for granted.
Elliott’s Balmain: A neighbourhood eatery with cool vibes
Across the harbour in Balmain, Elliott’s Balmain offers something entirely different: a restaurant that blends into the lively, buzzing neighbourhood, offering a refined, fun dining experience with Euro-Aussie vibes.
As soon as we step into the courtyard with crazy paving and take in the fireplace, Persian-style rug, burgundy booths and cool white chairs with teal cushions surrounded by tropical gardens, we’re excited.
As the scent of smoked meat emanates from the kitchen the staff greet us like old friends, and a glass of prosecco kicks off an incredible meal orchestrated by Chef Brad Crowle (who, notably, worked alongside Noma alumnus Beau Clugston at Kiln).
Sharing is encouraged, and Brad has put fire-led cooking, seasonality and native Australian influences front and centre. We start with Sydney rock oysters drizzled in a light, sweet hibiscus jus, followed by blue swimmer crab tartlets liberally sprinkled with roe, and perfectly piped chicken pâte sitting upon delicious cracker-like bases.
The barbecued king prawns have already been peeled for us, and they arrive in a garlic and parsley oil that has our plate looking like an acrylic poured artwork.
The wood-fired Murray cod has been beautifully cooked to retain its delicate texture while picking up subtle smoky notes from the grill, and the pièce de résistance is the Tajima (Japanese black cattle) wagyu flank that we thought we couldn’t fit in. We devour it silently, in awe of the spectacularly smoky tenderness.
What makes Elliott’s so much fun is the vibrant atmosphere. The DJ pumps great music including 80s and 70s classics – two huge trees covered in fairy lights on either side of him. As we leave, we start planning our return for the bottomless brunch on Sundays, which is $99 per person.
Ananas: A French revival in Argyle Square
There’s something wonderfully fitting about a sophisticated French brasserie finding a home among the historic sandstone buildings of The Rocks.
Ananas Bar & Brasserie is located in the heritage-listed Argyle Stores. With its heavy wood-beamed ceilings, hardwood columns, and moody lamp-lit tables covered in crisp white tablecloths, you could have stepped from Sydney’s harbourfront into a French diner in Montmartre.
There’s a dedicated Champagne bar (of course!) and the menu honours classic French culinary traditions while celebrating local produce. Think rich, hearty flavours, refined presentation and meticulous technique. Which is perfectly encapsulated in the mildly earthy escargots and the spiced lamb sausage with ratatouille that we indulge in for starters.
One of the restaurant’s most popular dishes is its delish classic steak frites. A perfectly cooked premium steak arrives alongside crisp golden fries and a rich sauce, delivering the sort of timeless pleasure that French brasseries have perfected for generations.
For dessert, a waiter brings out its renowned Baba d’Ananas – a rum-soaked savarin (a classic French yeast cake) with a super-sweet pineapple salsa and crème fraîche chantilly. It’s nothing short of heaven on a plate.
Fittingly, the name Ananas is French for pineapple, and historically it symbolises hospitality and a warm welcome. This spirit is really evident throughout our wonderful meal, with the staff regaling us with funny stories while pouring wine and explaining the background of the meals and the many special ingredients that bring the delightful dishes to life.
Glass Brasserie: High above the city streets
Few Sydney restaurants have achieved the longevity and reputation of Glass Brasserie, and stepping into this glass-walled wonderland of style which is always alive with conversation and the clinking of glasses, there’s no wondering why.
We sit by the windows overlooking some of Sydney’s most impressive sandstone buildings, people far below going about their evenings, the light rail trains zipping by every few minutes. Just sitting there is like being on a movie set, and when the food and drinks start arriving, it becomes a scene for all the senses.
Located within Hilton Sydney, the striking interior design created by New York designer Tony Chi will no doubt never seem outdated.
The menu reflects Head Chef Natalie Murphy’s philosophy of allowing quality ingredients to really shine. From the oysters and scallops to the charcoal Southern Ocean squid seasoned with pepper berry salt, everything is cooked to perfection and beautifully presented – on the plate and by the staff.
A signature dish that has become synonymous with Glass is the crab omelette. Delicate and deceptively simple, it combines sweet Queensland spanner crab with silky egg and a gentle balance.
Being meat lovers, for mains we enjoy an O’Connor grass-fed fillet steak with a classic pear, rocket and parmesan salad, and a confit duck leg, with roasted grapes and Jerusalem artichoke. It’s a continuous stream of perfectly balanced flavour sensations.
After dinner, we head beneath the city streets for a cocktail at one of the most beautiful bars in Sydney – Marble Bar. As the name suggests, its most striking feature is its marble-clad interiors, and the stained glass windows are masterpieces.
It’s rare that a restaurant within a hotel is continually considered one of the best, and this year marks 21 years in business for Glass. The beauty of this, is that when you’ve indulged in a few courses and a few top drops, you can head to a gorgeous hotel suite at Hilton Sydney and sleep it all off while the harbour city continues to buzz with activity below.
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