Despite it always bursting at the seams with humans and wildlife enjoying the water, the Murray River has a way of slowing you down.
Perhaps it’s the continual, steady movement of the water, the towering river red gums standing watch along its banks, and the peaceful parade of houseboats, paddle steamers and tinnies gliding by.
Whatever it is, a few days exploring Mildura and Wentworth is an exercise in embracing a gentler pace, where exceptional food and wine, fascinating history, boutique shopping and world-class art experiences unfold beside one of our most iconic waterways.
It’s a destination that’s equal parts sophisticated and relaxed, where contemporary creativity sits alongside rich heritage and spectacular natural landscapes that make you want to get out there and throw yourself into it all.
Bushwalking and wonderful wine
The Murray is Australia’s longest river – its impressive 2508 kilometres spanning New South Wales, Victoria and South Australia. And so our trip aptly begins in Mildura’s heart, where the river is never far from view.
Morning sunlight dances across the water before Dockside Café & Boat Hire as houseboats drift quietly through the marina, black swans trailing in their wake. With freshly brewed coffees in hand and delicious bacon and egg rolls before us, it’s impossible for my husband and I not to settle into the easygoing rhythm that the locals all seem to move to. As the sun shines down, the marina slowly awakens around us – people stopping to say good morning, dogs excitedly bounding along on the grassy riverbanks, boats gently rocking on moorings.
Happily caffeinated, we drive 10 minutes north-west towards Merbein, where the landscape opens at Merbein Lookout. Standing on a wooden deck, we look out over mallee bush and red gums shooting from the rugged red earth that sprawls in all directions. It’s enough to still anyone’s mind, and we greedily suck in the super crisp, fresh country air.
As we drive on, vineyards stretch towards the horizon, framed by rich red earth and winding river flats.
The contrast between vibrant greens and warm ochre tones creates a quintessentially Australian vista
that’s particularly beautiful in the soft morning light.
Set among thriving vineyards in Merbein, Chalmers Wines has built a reputation for pioneering Italian grape varieties while always exploring fresh ways of doing things.
Friendly hosts guide us through lesser-known varietals – think Fiano, Vermentino, Greco Nero d’Avola – and distinctive flavours created by Italian winemaking techniques, such as Appassimento – which is where harvested grapes are dried on straw mats or racks for several weeks or months before fermentation. This dehydration concentrates sugars, acidity and flavours, resulting in highly structured, full-bodied, aromatic wines with high alcohol content.
Contemporary architecture and vast windows framing the vineyards creates a sophisticated and welcoming cellar door. Whether you’re a seasoned wine enthusiast or simply curious to discover something new, Chalmers makes everyone feel at home.
We walk off our tasting with the 10-kilometre Blandowski Walk, which is a great cliff-top hike through the native bushland. Birdsong fills the air as we meander down the trail through ever-changing terrain, river views popping along the way, while kangaroos and wallabies bound through the undergrowth.
Wandering through Wentworth
We cross the Murray River on the Abbotsford Bridge and head into Wentworth’s town centre, which is right on the confluence of the Murray and Darling rivers. One of Australia’s oldest river towns, Wentworth oozes historic charm. The wide streets are lined with heritage buildings, and if the paddle steamers still ruled the waterways, we’d have quite literally stepped back in time.
Lunch at Lock 10 & Weir Restaurant is a perfect introduction to the town’s rich past. Housed within a beautifully restored heritage building draped with grape vines, it combines warm hospitality with endless stories embedded in its colourful, eclectic décor. Once home to early river trade enterprises and Wentworth’s first picture theatre, the building has witnessed generations of history.
Oh, if the walls could talk!
Today, visitors settle into its welcoming interior to enjoy fresh seasonal dishes, regional wines and excellent coffee. We tuck into a portobello mushroom pasta and a local fave – the lamb burger.
Just down the street, be sure to stop by for a cool one at the Royal Hotel Motel – the oldest pub in the Sunraysia region. Established in 1866, this family-run country pub by the river has been operating continuously for 160 years, and it’s dog friendly!
Across the road you’ll find the delightful Wanderer’s Crossing River Retreat, which is a beautifully kept caravan park right on the river where the owners go above and beyond to create a peaceful, spotless place with everything you need for a fantastic riverside holiday.
Darling Street forms the heart of the town’s boutique shopping scene, where the preserved heritage façades house an eclectic collection of independent retailers in homewares, gifts, fashion, artisan products and handcrafted textiles. We chat with a few passionate business owners who are always happy to give visitors tips on what to see and do in their region.
A visit to the Wentworth Visitor Information Centre reveals another layer of the region, with the interactive space encouraging travellers to engage with local stories and gain a deeper understanding of the landscapes that define the Murray-Darling region.
Red sandhills & a meeting of rivers
After lunch we drive out of town to a place that has been on our travel bucket list for years – the wonderfully red Perry Sandhills.
We park at the base of some of the hills and look up into the shifting red sands that stand out starkly against a brilliant blue sky. The ancient dunes seem out of place. as it’s not often that you stumble across a mini-desert beside a riverside town.
Walking, slipping and running across the soft, warm sand there’s a remarkable silence and a feeling of neverending space. For an hour, it’s only us out there, and it feels like we’re on another planet. As the afternoon progresses, the dunes glow with golden hues, their contours shifting with every change in light.
Heading back to the carpark, we watch as excited kids run up the red hills and then slide back down on pieces of cardboard, their squeals of delight echoing around us.
There aren’t many places where two of a country’s longest rivers meet, so next on the itinerary is visiting one of the region’s geographical landmarks.
At Junction Park, there’s a viewing tower overlooking the meeting point of the Murray and Darling Rivers. We climb up the spiral staircase and from the top, look at the convergence of two waterways that have been shaping inland history for centuries.
Nearby, Lock 10 and Weir offers another perspective on the Murray system, highlighting the incredible engineering that has helped shaped river life in these parts. We sit on the riverbank and wait for the water show to begin. Then we’re both mesmerised as we watch the lock fill with gushing water, readying itself for the arrival of a boat that will slide in, and then be lowered down as the water recedes, in order to glide out the other side.
Memories made amongst the magic of FOSO
As daylight fades, we head back to the Perry Sandhills to see another phenomenon – something manmade, yet equally as spectacular as the landscape that it now sits upon.
The Fibre Optic Symphonic Orchestra (aka FOSO) is the latest creation by internationally renowned light artist, Bruce Munro. Essentially, it’s a collection of 80 Hills Hoist-like structures that together, create an utterly enchanting installation of light and sound.
Bruce had a dream of being able to walk through an orchestra, and here in the sandhills, his vision has been brought to life. As we walk across the soft red sand, weaving our way through the towering sculptures, the transcendental score created by acclaimed British composer Nainita Desai emanates from 240 speakers.
Thousands of fibre optic strings fade in and out, colours shooting up, down and across the main columns, then out across the hoists’ arms in time with the rise and fall of the hypnotic sonatas.
Both of us are lost in our own thoughts as we wander – the shadows of other visitors passing by us like ghosts, murmurs of their thoughts drifting in the dark of the night.
Leaving the sandhills and arriving at the bustling Captain Sturt Hotel for dinner is like stepping back to reality after being hypnotised.
This much-loved local institution was built in 1886 by 19th century pioneer and town mayor, John Leary. A duo is playing some country music on a stage in the beer garden as we settle in for some delicious chicken schnitzels and a cold beer. Bliss.
We start chatting to some locals who recommend fitting in the Old Wentworth Gaol, Wentworth Pioneer Museum and Riverboat Rod’s Model Paddle Steamer Display, as all three have shaped the Wentworth that we see today. We add them to our growing list of things to see and do.
Markets, art & food, glorious food
Our next morning kicks off with another local institution: the Sunraysia Farmers & Makers Market. Bringing together the region’s growers, producers and artisans by the Murray River, the smell of homemade deliciousness has our stomachs rumbling. We grab a cuppa from a coffee van, indulge in some Turkish bread and dips, buy some awesome Nepalese dumplings, and stock up on local honey, beef jerky and dried fruits.
For another culture hit, we head to the Mildura Arts Centre and Rio Vista Historic House. Contemporary exhibitions fill the light and bright gallery space, and next door, Rio Vista House offers a beautifully preserved glimpse into Mildura’s early years and the legacy of the Chaffey family, whose vision helped transform the region. The self-guided tour of the grand house that was built when Mildura was a desert is like stepping back in time. We’re in awe of what the Chaffey brothers achieved by bringing irrigation to the region, which led to wine and fruit growing, and the produce that Mildura is famous for.
For lunch we head to Nash Lane, which is also considered one of the best places to grab a coffee. The exterior is draped in grape vines with bright murals adorning the white brick walls, while inside the cool, minimalist industrial styling gives it a Melbourne warehouse feel. I order the glazed barramundi with a green salad, which is a fresh, zingy taste sensation.
After lunch we head to Kings Billabong, which is an adventurer’s playground and also an important floodplain ecosystem. There are walking tracks, cycling trails and still waters that are perfect for kayaks and canoes. We hire canoes and spend a tranquil couple of hours paddling about, the water lit up like sparkling wings around us.
Trail of lights on Lock Island
As the sun sets we make our way to Lock Island, where another Bruce Munro masterpiece awaits.
Trail of Lights is the quieter, more contemplative counterpart to FOSO. Hundreds of delicate lights glow softly among the trees by the river’s banks, creating the illusion of fireflies dancing through the landscape.
We follow winding pathways that are dark compared to the illuminated bushland, the fireflies gently shifting as though they’re all silently dancing. It’s just as mesmerising as FOSO.
Within Trail of Lights is Gone Fishing – a whimsical fibre-optic light sculpture. Inspired by Bruce’s childhood memories of fishing with his brother. Consisting of colourful, illuminated fishing rods that capture the peaceful, reflective feeling of standing by a stream, it’s pure magic.
Once again, as we leave, the real world is loud and in stark contrast to the quiet spaces we’ve been happily lost in.
We head to dinner at TikTek – a bustling Asian restaurant inspired by Thai cuisine. The dishes are as vibrant as the interiors – bursting with colour, texture and bold flavours, each plate designed to surprise and delight.
From ancient sandhills and historic streetscapes to contemporary art and exceptional wine and dining – culture, nature and creativity are at the heart of Mildura and Wentworth. And they’re all as impressive as the two rivers that have defined this thriving region
Loving this story on Mildura & Wentworth? To learn more about Bruce Munro’s FOSO exhibition, click here.
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