With more than 100 kilometres of untamed coastline, hinterland villages where time moves gently, and national parks that tumble from rainforest to sea, the Macleay Valley Coast of NSW is where you come to dive into nature and breathe in that fresh and salty coastal air.
The Macleay Valley Coast is a place of sunhats and sandy feet. You can pack your hiking boots too, and something fun and inflatable for floating down rivers.
If you’ve got a weekend, or even better, a long one, here’s how to soak things up like a local, plenty of whom you’ll meet at the end of sunny days on the wide verandas of pubs or in sun-dappled café courtyards.
Step it up on the Mulumun Trail
There’s something quietly powerful and energising about hiking up a trail that snakes high above the ocean, and it’s even better when the jaw-dropping views span out every which way you look. And the best part – you literally heard it here first.
The Mulumun Trail is an evolving coastal walk linking South West Rocks to Point Plomer, as stage 1, and when complete, it’ll connect four Macleay Valley Coast national parks and five headlands through to Grassy Head. The sweeping Pacific Ocean views, rugged cliff edges, and vast pockets of bushland alive with birdsong and shrieking cicadas in the summer give it that quintessential Aussie beauty that’s enough to bring a smile to anyone’s face.
While the Trail is still very much under construction, the recently completed section between Big Nobby and Goolawah Beach is a 636-metre stretch of elevated trail that meanders above the coastline. Built carefully with small plant machinery and hand tools to protect the surrounding environment, it’s a reminder that progress and preservation can walk hand in hand, and it’s a top spot to let your furry friend come along.
Step back in time at the Slim Dusty Centre
To understand the Macleay Valley Coast, you need to understand its country soul. The locals will tell you that means paying tribute to Slim.
The Slim Dusty Centre in Kempsey celebrates the life and legacy of Australia’s King of Country, whose songs captured the grit, humour and heart of regional Australia. With more than seven million records sold, a first-ever Australian gold record in 1958, and classics such as A Pub With No Beer, Slim’s music became part of the national soundtrack, and it sticks to this day, even amongst the younger crowds.
Inside the striking, modern centre, the story of Slim and Joy (his wife) unfolds through personal artefacts, rare photographs, and memorabilia from the Kirkpatrick family archive. There’s ‘Old Purple’, the famous touring car, hitched up to Slim and Joy’s final caravan. There’s a wall shimmering with gold and platinum records. And yes, one of Akubras too.
On-site, the Nulla Nulla Regional Gallery showcases touring and local exhibitions, while the café is a cosy spot for coffee and cake before you continue exploring.
Art and culture in downtown Kempsey
Set on the banks of the Macleay River, Kempsey began as a timber and dairy town, but today its arty side is also proudly on display.
Start in the laneways, where colour and bold compositions explode across brick walls as part of the From the Mountains to the Sea project. Ten artists have transformed the town centre into an open-air gallery, capturing its people, wildlife and stories in untamed brushstrokes.
On Savages Lane, Brisbane muralist Ash Taylor has reimagined the Macleay River in a flowing abstract form, weaving in native species such as the spider orchid and the green and golden bell frog. Just metres away, the Community Healing mural honours the Dunghutti Nation, with winding river imagery and symbolic footsteps representing future generations.
For a deeper connection, step inside the Dunghutti-Ngaku Aboriginal Art Gallery. This not-for-profit space showcases works by local Aboriginal artists, with stories shared generously by staff who understand the cultural significance behind each piece.
Soak up the charm of Bellbrook
Forty-five minutes west of Kempsey, the road begins to wind, the air begins to cool, and you’ll find yourself cruising across green hills and into the tiny, pretty town of Bellbrook, which was Slim Dusty’s childhood home. You can still visit the modest house where the country legend was born, and the population hasn’t grown much – still only nudging 340 residents.
But it’s the Macleay River that really steals the show in these parts. At Bellbrook Bridge, locals gather with floaties, kayaks and fishing rods. Kids leap from the banks, bass ripple beneath the surface, and paddleboarders glide by. It’s all about simple, old-fashioned summer fun in Bellbrook, and there’s always a friendly local to give you the best fishing tips.
Nearby Blackbirds Flat offers riverside picnics, and space to set up for a relaxed car-camping escape.
To cool off and enjoy a cold beverage and great food, swing by the UNESCO heritage-listed Bellbrook Hotel, which was built in 1913 from red cedar milled along Nulla Nulla Creek.
Step inside Slim’s old local and you’ll be met with creaking floorboards, weathered photos and walls that hold a century of stories. The signature dishes that the locals swear by are the Southern Chicken Burger or the steak sanger, and Happy Hours and live music keep the punters rolling in.
There’s an on-site general store and cafe if you need to stock up on supplies or grab a cuppa, and right next door, Bellbrook Cabins offer cosy timber stays if one afternoon turns into another relaxing day in this charming hamlet.
Dive into the beauty of Hat Head
Half an hour east of Kempsey, the landscape shifts again – dunes rise, the horizon opens, and Hat Head greets you with 12 kilometres of uninterrupted beachfront.
Hat Head Creek is a local favourite for snorkelling. Time your swim just before high tide and you’ll glide over hermit crabs, mullet and the occasional octopus in water so clear it feels tropical. Venture further out, and you might spot a stingray resting along the ocean floor.
Hat Head National Park is where the rainforest meets the golden sands. Bushwalk through headlands to panoramic lookouts along the three-kilometre Korogoro (Green Island) track, which is a prime vantage point for migrating whales and soaring sea eagles.
And then there’s Smoky Cape Lighthouse, which was built in 1891 and is the highest lighthouse in New South Wales.
Join a ranger-led tour and climb the narrow spiral staircase to the balcony, where the Pacific stretches endlessly in every direction. If you want to linger longer, stay overnight in the keeper’s cottage and fall asleep to the magical sound of waves crashing far below.
Dining on the Macleay Valley Coast
Good food tastes better after a morning outdoors. In Gladstone, Bills on Macleay has quickly become a local favourite – nothing on the menu tops $20, and the vibe is relaxed and welcoming. Think strong coffee, salmon patties with dill mayo on pillowy milk buns, bacon and egg rolls done right, and Greek yoghurt generously crowned with fruit and crunchy granola.
Outdoor tables, murals on the walls, and plenty of dogs underfoot make it the kind of place where breakfast easily turns into brunch and lunch.
On weekends, the Fredo Pub draws a lively crowd for its Friday night bistro and Saturday lunch in the beer garden. Or if you are looking for a fun activity, head to Frederickton Golf Course and play a casual round on the nine-hole course (green fees are refreshingly affordable), then settle in for a classic clubhouse meal or a sausage sizzle after a social competition. It’s not flashy, but like so many of the eateries in these parts, that’s exactly the point.
Everything and everyone on the Macleay Valley Coast is relaxed and sun-kissed, and with this much to explore at a gentle pace, there’s no wondering why.
To read about the best wedding venues on the Macleay Valley Coast, click here.
Rex flies to Port Macquarie, and from there it is an easy 40-minute drive to the Macleay Valley Coast. Book your tickets here and check out the route map below.
