The tree branches above me sway gently as I focus on a tiny red-backed fairywren, willing myself not to move. Even the tiniest of movements brings another surge of icy water over my skin, literally sending shivers racing down my spine.
It’s my first Nordic ice bath, and while beginners are told a few minutes is plenty, the clock beside me seems frozen in time. Thirty seconds has never felt so long.
When I finally climb out, I gingerly pad across well-worn stepping stones to a hot tub sending up tendrils of enticingly warm mist. As I lower myself in, my skin tingles like popping candy. Ahhh. I get it, I think, leaning back and staring into the canopy. This is why they do it.
Next is the steam sauna. I lie on the warm timber, close my eyes and try to settle my thoughts, using an old meditation trick: picture a white room full of chattering monkeys – they’re every worry or errant thought. Open the window. Watch each monkey climb out. Then lie down in the quiet. It works… mostly. But I’m not good at slowing down.
Ten minutes later I’m in the infrared sauna, a yurt-like, glowing timber room centred around a combustion fireplace. I tuck myself into a space, body facing the red lights, and shoo away the monkeys that somehow slipped back in the window.
A mineral-rich spa surrounded by tropical gardens is next, complete with strong jets easing my tired back and legs. Then I circle back to the dreaded ice bath, only to find that each cycle makes it a little more like a friend, as the tingling skin that comes after is intoxicating.
I’m at The Bathhouse at Ground Currumbin, a Byron Bay-esque eco village just half an hour from Surfers Paradise. The place hums with health-conscious locals who value slowing down and living well. My hour slips by quickly, and after a shower and popping on a crumpled cotton dress, I wander into Pasture & Co – the village’s lovely, laidback eatery.
The open-air café is buzzing. My chicken soba noodle salad is fresh and bright, and I perch at a bench watching families, couples and friends soaking up sunshine while being fuelled by superfoods and seriously good coffee.
Cascades, and the river that runs through it
A 25-miunte drive from the calming vibes of Ground Currumbin has me in Springbrook National Park, at the beginning of a 1.6-kilometre walking track through sub-rainforest to Cougal Cascades – a series of waterfalls, rock pools and swimming holes.
Plenty of locals don’t even know about this patch of paradise, but the ones who do, come often to beat the summer heat. The sealed path takes you to an old sawmill that operated in the 1940s, but it’s the cool, clear water and the soundtrack of whipbirds and running creek that steal the show.
I clamber down a rocky path and dive into a clear, deep billabong, the sound of whipbirds and burbling water merging into a spa soundtrack. The cool water and rainforest towering around me feels surreal as I swim around and then float on my back, looking up into the dense canopies.
My watery theme continues a couple of hours later when I join a guided tour with Australian Kayaking Adventures, and enjoy a peaceful paddle with an experienced guide across glassy waters – skyrises and fancy waterfront homes gliding past like a vibrant slide show. The mangroves, locals fishing, and pockets of parkland with resident peacocks, bats, brush turkeys and ibis birds remind me that despite being a brassy city of around 750,000 people, nature has a firm foothold in the Goldie.
This part of the world is famed for its long wide beaches packed with people in active wear, but the Nerang River is the region’s quiet achiever. From the hinterland’s rolling green slopes to the bright buzz of Surfers Paradise, the river is a lifeline that shapes the character and rhythm of this sun-soaked playground.
More watery wonders, and time to float
The bright sun streaming into my suite wakes me from a peaceful night’s sleep at one of my favourite hotels in Australia – the JW Marriott Gold Coast Resort & Spa. Famous for its one-of-a-kind saltwater lagoon where guests can snorkel with fish, it’s surrounded by palms, waterfalls, manmade caves and sandy beaches.
Couples drift between cabanas and enjoy bar snacks poolside, while others sip on cocktails from their sun loungers on the beach as kids dart between the shimmering lagoon, waterslide and a winding river pool with a current that carries you along with no effort. Water dragons scamper in and out of the action, photographed like celebrities.
Taking the lift from the grand, marble-floored lobby area, The spa at the JW Marriott is the epitome of a luxurious sanctuary. Soft lighting, calming aromas and warm, attentive therapists create an environment that feels worlds away from the buzz of the busy pool area.
Treatments draw on natural botanicals and soothing rituals, from deeply relaxing massages to skin-renewing facials that leave you glowing. Whether you’re easing travel tension or indulging in a full wellness escape, the spa delivers a tranquil, restorative experience. I sip on a jasmine tea after my one-hour massage, and then enjoy a shower with jets of water cascading from the ceiling and shooting out from the walls.
Diving from one watery world to another, I take an uber to Native State in Kirra, which is a serene coastal bathhouse focussed on water-based rituals, but it’s more social than the Bathhouse at the Ground Currumbin.
Guests move quietly between the magnesium plunge pool, cedarwood sauna and white-walled steam room, tension melting away and peace settling in. Now somewhat of an ice-bath aficionado, I take the plunge and ignore the clock. I’m even brave enough to stand in an open shower space and pull a rope cord that dumps a huge bucket of freezing water on me, without squealing.
After another infrared sauna, I slip into the meditation room and lie back on a soft lounger. I don’t have to summon up my room of monkeys, as a woman’s soft voice takes me on a journey along a river that is my life.
Float, and trust that you are safe while the river that is your life takes you to unexpected places where you are happy to be. There are no river sounds in the room, but I swear I can hear them. She almost has me nodding off, and I leave the room feeling loose-limbed, pink-cheeked excited about what’s next along this river of mine.
Culture fix at HOTA
Art always makes me feel energised, so I head across the river to HOTA – aka the Home of the Arts, where the precinct’s striking gallery glitters in the sun.
The brightly coloured, six-storey building is comprised of huge panels of dazzling blues, orange, sunflower yellow, red, purple and tree-frog green framed by black lines. The pattern is based on a Voronoi pattern – a network of cells found in nature like cracked mud or animal skins. It’s set upon rolling outdoor lawns complete with a dam for swimming, a stage for exhibitions, live performances, festivals and films under the stars.
The three-hatted restaurant on the ground floor called Palette matches its meals to the exhibits, while the Exhibitionist Bar on the rooftop matches the cocktails to suit the artists on show.
I explore the current Ken Done: No Rules exhibit, which confirms just how delightfully mad he is, and how refreshingly bright, joyful and arresting his art is. It’s a perfect madhouse of bold colours, scribbled thoughts on canvas and videos of Ken’s life in Sydney.
Not only do I love admiring his classic artworks from the 80s and 90s, but I also learn a lot about the man himself, including that he paints with discarded children’s beach spades that he has found over the years on the beach.
I wrap up my visit in the Exhibitionist Bar with a Ken-Done inspired cocktail (gin, pinot gris and kiwi fruit), a charcuterie board and a lovely fresh green salad, and then head back to my hotel for – you guessed it – another swim in the lagoon pool.
Food for the soul
A decade ago, finding a healthy, modern, stylish restaurant on the Gold Coast was not easy. I know, because I tried. But today, there are usually more than 20 hatted restaurants and so many places dishing up delicious meals with outstanding views, exceptional staff and the one constant – relaxing Gold Coast vibes.
Breakfast at the JW Marriott Gold Coast’s Citrique restaurant is another highlight of a stay. The buffet sprawls in every direction like a high-end food market, and it’s packed with rows of beautifully presented fresh pastries, tropical fruits, artisan breads and everything you could possibly want to kick off the day. There’s all the big brekkie faves, an amazing selection of hot Asian dishes such as stir fries and noodles, a juice station to blend your own concoction, and huge assortments of salads, yoghurts and even a lolly bar for the pancakes and waffles.
Citrique has had three hats for three consecutive years, and is open for fine dining at night, so stop by for a degustation where much of the fresh produce sourced from JW’s own garden that’s tucked away behind the lagoon’s caves.
If you’re a fan of mathca (basically, ground green tea), swing by ‘94 Café in Palm Beach. This hole-in-the-wall is a local fave, and the queues out the door for the flavoured matchas are testimony to the quality of the sweet fixes you’ll find here. I tried the salted caramel one and it had me buzzing for hours.
For lunch or dinner, Cora Restaurant and Bar on Broadbeach is a stunning location with seasonal, produce-led menu and an effortlessly stylish vibe. The selection of classic dishes (think barramundi, steak, schnittys and pizzas) are thoughtful without the fuss – beautifully balanced flavours, vibrant plating and a clear respect for local producers.
I tucked into some oysters with a mignonette, a delicious middle eastern lemon chicken, and wrapped up with the wickedly good crème brulee with a raspberry sorbet.
For Teppanyaki fans, Misono is the absolute bomb. Chris Hemsworth’s rave review in the form of a fun video with his family, shot this place to fame. It’s dinner and a show rolled into one vibrant, high-energy experience that’ll has my face sore from smiles and laughter.
The hilarious chefs flip, slice and sear with theatrical flair, turning each table into its own little stage – throwing eggs and food at diners while performing a stream of endless tricks. The menu celebrates premium Australian produce – sizzling steaks, fresh seafood, crisp vegetables – cooked before you on the teppan grill.
Siblings sits right on the Coolangatta waterfront, delivering a dreamy mix of relaxed coastal elegance, warm and friendly service, and a food and fine wine menu made for languorous catchups. The space is bright and breezy, with ocean views making meals feel like a mini holiday.
I order a haloumi salad bursting with superfood goodness, a glass of crisp rose, and the best prawn cocktail I’ve ever come across. Five giant king prawns are arranged like a hermit crab dangling from a pile of smashed avocado sitting atop a bed of crispy lettuce, with the classic sauce giving it a nice kick.
Keeping it cool at The Cat
For my last night, I check into accommodation only ten minutes from the airport. I love a great retro motel reno, and The Cheshire Cat in Palm Beach, on the busy Gold Coast Highway, is one of the cooolest ones I’ve had the pleasure of staying in. It’s kept its old-school Gold Coast 60s vibes, with Californian bungalow touches polishing off the super-stylish look.
There are six queen suites in a typical motel-style row, but I check into the two-bedroom apartment that’s breezy and light-filled, the gently rotating ceiling fans, turntable and vinyl records taking me back in time and making me want to sit on the balcony with a margarita.
I opt for a tea instead, and head down to the plunge pool surrounded by palm trees and sun loungers. The water is warm, the sun is shining, and I can hear the hustle and bustle of the Gold Coast on the other side of the fence.
It’s a no-contact hotel, meaning everything is done online, there’s an app for your key, and there’s no reception. Assistance is a text away if you need anything.
Going with the flow
As my plane takes off and glides beyond the Goldie, I look back at the glistening city surrounded by beaches with a river running through it, and I think of the woman’s soothing voice in the meditation room. I think of her analogy about life taking people to unexpected places, and the need to trust the current and where you end up.
And I think about common conceptions of the Gold Coast – sure, it’s big, bright and brash, but a nourishing wellness scene flows through it like a river – connecting places, people and produce that are good for the body and soul.
To read about the best beaches and waterways on the Gold Coast, click here.
Rex flies to Brisbane, which is about one hour from the Gold Coast. For more information, head to the website or check out the route map below.
