I think I woke up before dawn on the day of my opal tour in Coober Pedy, but without a timepiece at hand in my underground room at the Desert Cave Hotel, it could’ve been any time of the night or day. As an experiment, I’d tucked my watch and the hotel’s alarm clock into the wardrobe to see how well I slept in complete darkness.
Once my door was closed, the utter silence was unnerving at first, as even though I live in a quiet part of Sydney I can always hear the white-noise hum of urban life. There’s always a possum or bush turkey thumping across the roof or birds singing at dawn.
Here, I can only hear my breath and the quiet beating of my heart. With no windows or even cracks letting in natural light, when I wave a hand in front of my face, I can’t see a thing.
I love the feeling of being safely cocooned in the earth, surrounded by the thick sandstone walls. I think of Alice tumbling down the rabbit hole into a place with a rare kind of peacefulness. It’s a physical, tangible disconnect from my busy, often-brash reality in the city.
Around 1,500 people live in Coober Pedy, and most of their homes are underground due to the extreme heat. Typical temperatures in summer sit around the mid-30°s, but can reach the high 40°s for days on end. Dug-out homes maintain a constant temperature of around 18°, which is perfect during winter as well.
Underground it’s cool, dry and consistent, with no need for air-conditioning. Furniture and objects last longer too, as mould isn’t an issue. In fact, I learn, storing things underground in the desert is one of the best preservation methods.
A dream beneath the earth’s surface
In 1981, local legend Umberto Coro started working on his dream of sharing the unique experience of underground living with visitors to his remote town.
After more than 26 years working in mining and hospitality, he knew the demand for an underground hotel was there, and that it would be a classic case of “build it and they will come.”
Opal mining machinery was lugged in from the fields to gouge through the sandstone of a hillside near the main street. It was tough going – the relentless heat, dust storms and mini cyclones made for a brutal process that would test anyone.
Most building materials had to be hauled 850 kilometres from Adelaide, and local rock was brought in from Moon Plain (25 kilometres north) to create the hotel’s stunning stonework façade that it’s famous for today.
Sadly, in 1986, when he was two years into the build, Umberto was killed in a road accident. His son Robert – the hotel’s General Manager – led the family in completing the project, and in 1988, the Desert Cave Hotel opened its doors.
I marvel at the softly rippled, warm-red walls and the simple wooden décor in earthy tones that reflects the shifting hues of the rugged land outside.
Like the opals found beneath it, Coober Pedy is brimming with colour, resilience and a tough, well-worn kind of beauty. And while the stars out here put on a show like no other – an endless sky of glittering brilliance – the true stars of Coober Pedy are, without a doubt, the opals.
The real stars of Coober Pedy
The dazzling colours in an opal are caused by light diffraction within the stone’s microscopic silica spheres. Larger spheres produce longer wavelengths that burst forth in reds and oranges, while smaller spheres produce shorter wavelengths leading to lovely blues and violets. I like to think of it as part science, part magic.
I learn all of this on an underground tour with a local opal expert, who explains that opals formed during the Cretaceous period, between 65 and 140 million years ago.
Back then, this part of Australia was a vast inland sea. Silica-rich water slowly seeped into the ground, filling cracks in the sandstone.
Over time, as the water evaporated, it left behind deposits of silica, and over millions of years, these became the opals we see today.
Opals occur from the surface to about 30 metres deep in veins known as “The Opal Level.” While there’s always a chance of stumbling across something extraordinary in mining, Coober Pedy is best known for five types of opals.
White opal is the most common type found here, with light or white body tones and a gentle yet vivid play of sparkling colours.
Crystal opal is transparent or semi-transparent with vibrant colours that appear to float within the stones, and Light opal is like white opal but often with clearer patterns and a slightly darker tone.
Black opal, which is usually associated with Lightning Ridge because so much of it has been found there, has also been discovered in Coober Pedy. This type of opal has a dark base that intensifies the play of colour, and often features a dazzling show of red, orange, green, blue, purple, and even hot pink.
Boulder opal and Matrix opal are typically found elsewhere, but some smaller samples have been discovered in and around Coober Pedy and displayed in local collections.
Where to learn about, view and buy opals
Coober Pedy is one of the best places in the world to get a crash course in all things opal.
Old Timers Mine is a good place to start. This once-lost hand-dug mine was rediscovered in the 1960s and is now preserved as a museum. You can wander through the tunnels, check out mining equipment, and see firsthand the opal seams in rock.
There are many retail outlets that sell opals from Coober Pedy and other mining areas. Opalios has been a cornerstone of Coober Pedy’s opal industry since 1973, when husband-and-wife duo Andreas and Stella arrived with a dream of mining opals. In 1987 Stella launched Coober Pedy’s first boutique showroom, and today their children George and Lyn continue the legacy.
All opals are mined, cut, and crafted on-site, by expert miners, cutters and jewellers, and all pieces come with authentication certificates. A genuine outback gem shop with heart, it’s known for its warm and welcoming service.
Opal Direct is another iconic local business that the Kountouris family has mined and operated for more than 60 years. The company’s mission has always been to pursue the quest of mining the rarest gemstone in the world, and it exports wholesale rough and cut opals mined by the family. All opals from this this outlet come with Australian Made Certification.
Some businesses even offer fossicking – a chance to sift through mine tailings and try your luck at finding your very own opal.
Other things to do while in Coober Pedy
While opals are the town’s beating heart, there’s plenty more to discover.
The Breakaways are 30 kilometres north of Coober Pedy, and the dramatic moon-like landscape of colourful mesas looks like something out of a sci-fi movie. The sunsets here are unforgettable.
Moon Plain is a lunar-like expanse that served as the backdrop for films such as Mad Max Beyond Thunderdome and The Adventures of Priscilla, Queen of the Desert.
The famous Dog Fence stretches more than 5,000 kilometres and was built to keep dingoes out of the fertile farmland in the south.
For underground churches, check out the Serbian Orthodox Church, the Catacomb Church, and St. Peter & Paul’s Catholic Church, all impressively carved into the rock.
Head to Tom’s Working Opal Mine for a hands-on mining experience where you can try your luck digging for precious stones.
And then there’s the quirky charm of Coober Pedy itself – its wild, wonderful characters, underground bookstore, challenging golf course with no grass, and even some cool underground camping options.
Steaks and drinks at the newly renovated Opal Inn
The Desert Cave Hotel does an amazing hot breakfast and great coffee, and after a dusty day of sightseeing and opal hunting, head over to the Opal Inn Hotel, Motel and Caravan Park, which has recently undergone a stylish renovation. After stepping inside and being warmly welcomed by staff, I think: don’t judge a book by its cover.
It may look like a simple old motel from the 1970s on the outside, but step inside and it’s a friendly, air-conditioned haven with great vibes where you’ll meet plenty of people keen to share stories over a cold bevvy and a game of pool.
The bar is well-stocked with great South Australian wines and there are cold beers on tap.
The restaurant offers hearty pub classics with generous servings and I’m told by another happy guest that the steaks are making a name for themselves – big, juicy and grilled to perfection. I tuck into mine and have to agree; it goes down beautifully with a lovely glass of Barossa red.
You’ll also find lamb shanks, schnitzels and fresh salads on the menu, and there’s a simple kids’ menu to keep the little ones happy.
The Opal Inn is smack-bang in the middle of town with accommodation options to suit all types of travellers – from powered caravan sites to comfy, clean motel rooms. It’s the perfect base while exploring the town and adventuring further afield.
A true Aussie outback adventure
When I think of Coober Pedy, three main themes come to mind: opals, red desert plains that sum up the Aussie outback, and the experience of stepping into a silent, calm world where I’m safe beneath the Earth’s surface. All three are about colour, character and depth.
Whether you come for the opals, the landscapes, or the novelty of sleeping underground, Coober Pedy inspires those who dig beneath the surface. Like the opals that have been forming here for millions of years, it’s full of surprises, and shines in loads of unexpected ways.
DEAL: Book a stay at the Opal Inn and the Desert Cave Hotels today & use this code for 15% off the rates for both: CODE: REX15
To read about the best places to eat and drink in Coober Pedy, click here.